|
Building a Skincare Regimen- The Basics
1) Sunscreen
• UVA vs. UVB: Your sunscreen should be broad-spectrum, protecting you from both UVB and UVA radiation. UVB rays penetrate the top layer of the skin (the epidermis) causing sunburn. UVA rays reach deeper (to the dermis) and damage collagen and pigment cells causing wrinkles and brown spots. UVA rays are present even on cloudy days, so wear sunscreen every single day.
• Physical vs. Chemical: Physical sunscreens (SkinCeuticals Ultimate and Blue Lizard) are metals that create a barrier which reflects the sun’s rays. Combinations of zinc and titanium are the broadest spectrum physical sunblocks. Chemical sunscreens absorb UV radiation by means of a chemical reaction. Not all chemical sunscreens are braod spectrum. Mexoryl, Neutrogena Helioplex, and Aveeno Active Photo-barrier Complex are the broadest spectrum chemical sunscreens available. Post-procedure and sensitive skins may prefer physical rather than chemical sunscreen.
• Application Tips: You should apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen SPF 30 or greater every morning. All sunscreens lose their potency within 2-4 hours so re-apply. Apply with skin moisturizer, or look for a moisturizing sunscreen. Some sunscreens can leave a white tint. Try mixing in tinted Zinc O for great coverage.
2) Topical Antioxidants
• Method of Action: Free radicals in sunlight and other environmental elements (such as cigarette smoke) cause chemical changes in the skin resulting in wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and loss of elasticity. Repeated damage can even lead to skin cancer. Antioxidants inactivate these free radicals, protecting against UV damage. You can use both topical and oral antioxidants but topicals have the best evidence for anti-aging.
• Choices: There are numerous topical antioxidants available. The best studied for anti-aging are topical vitamin C and Idebenone (Prevage). Be sure that your antioxidant is packaged so that the product is not exposed to air or sunlight.
• Application Tips: To help minimize irritation, start with a low concentration antioxidant product. Apply every a.m. before sunscreen to maximize photo protection.
3) Topical Retinoids • Method of Action: Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that can treat or prevent sun damage in the skin. They stimulate the exfoliation of dull-looking epidermal cells to distribute pigment evenly, which brightens and tightens skin. In addition, retinoids aid in DNA repair of photo-damage. • Choices: Many brands of topical retinoids exist. All retinoids have potential to irritate skin, but almost everyone can find one they can tolerate. • Application Tips: After gentle cleansing, pat dry and apply a small amount to the entire face-initially avoiding the eye and neck area. Start by using the product every other night for one or two weeks to gradually increase tolerance. If you like, you may moisturize after cleansing your face and then apply your retinoid 20-30 minutes later.
*Adding to your Regimen
The basics mentioned above are a starting place, but remember, hydroxy acids, growth factors, moisturizers, and many other products are available to improve and maintain your complexion. Your aesthetician and Dermatologist are by far the best resource for skin care, so schedule a consultation soon.
|
